![]() Having the rear hollow section a bit diagonally is totally fine, just make sure the holes are centered. And yes, you are correct: something is not square, one rail is longer than the other! The front holes are adjusted to be parallel, but the rear ones needed some trick. This seat used M8 screws for mounting, so 10 mm holes are used. ![]() Oh, and you can push back the seat when you try to get in or out! And it's easier to use an adjustable car seat than welding for another 2-3 hours to make the frame adjustable both horizontally and vertically. ![]() No, the adjustable pedals are not enough! Since the steering wheel's frame can only move vertically, adjustments must be made for both the pedals and the seat. But a car seat has 3 major advantages:Īnd I'm too old to sit in an uncomfortable position for hours. Sadly - this part will be greatly different for everyone.īut first: why buy a car seat? The "racing" seats look so cool! I know. They are not sharp anymore, so degreasing should come last, otherwise it's painful, annoying and/or dangerous. Also paint won't stick to oil/grease, but to clean metal. (so that's why they are not rusty) Go degrease it, because you don't want to get even more dirty. (Did I tell you to wear gloves?) It doesn't look THAT dirty, but they are coated in grease. You may noticed, that your hands are pretty dirty. The outer edges can be smoothed with almost any grinder, even an angle grinder does the trick. We want smooth sliding stuff.įiling is slow, grinding is fast. We are left with 1 mm room, and those sharp remains will scratch and mess up everything, especially paint. 5-5 milimeters would be a lot of room, but the hollow section is 2 mm thick, on each side. (Did I tell you to wear gloves?) The holes need some chamfering from the outside and filing on the inside - the 20x20 goes inside the 25x25. Now all the metal parts have sharp edges. The others are for the adjusting screws and the seat, they should be fine. Some of them are needed for the actual wheel/pedal, so if your joystick doesn't say Logitech G29 or G920, check the mounting holes. Let's get started!Ĭut all the metal? Good! Now you can drill all the holes we need. So even buying EVERY part and tool is about $350-400. Miter saw starting from $150 or an angle grinder stand for $30.Welder, stick welders start from $100, including everything you need, even gloves.So, the total is $57 so far if you have the tools. Mine was 3000 Ft / $10, because the airbag was open and replacing it would cost a lot, but I don't have to. If you search for a while, you will find a great deal. That could be tricky - but this is where you can save a LOT. ![]() All the screws and nuts cost about 2000 Ft / $7.Īnd that's basically it! Oh, the seat. The Logitech G29/G920 uses M6 screws too. Anti-corrosive all-in-one black metal paint (750 ml) with special paint thinner + 2 brush: 3000 Ft / $10.įor the adjustable parts I used M6 nuts - and for practical reasons - screws with "builtin" knob. The frame is made out of steel, and I bought here it for less than 9000 Ft / $30. The average adjustable sim seats start at $4-500, and we will make it for much cheaper! No, I don't compare this project to a $5000 seat (which is still just a car seat with some bent steel tubes). However, the motto of this project could be: Make your own Sim Seat 10 times cheaper than a store-bought one or LITERALLY buy all the tools and equipment needed!Īnd I mean literally. Many (or most?) DIY project costs more than just buying something, but we LOVE making thing.
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